Reservation for One: Silo Modern Farmhouse

Photos by Aaron Leimkuehler

Come for the golf, stay for the cake.

That could be the tagline for Silo Modern Farmhouse, a new eatery now open to the public on the grounds of Canyon Farms Golf Club in Lenexa. Even if the greens hold little interest for you, the restaurant makes itself hard to overlook, both with its approach to food and its imposing physical presence.

Driving down a dark Lenexa road, the silo out front jumps out at you. Illuminated from below, the structure that inspired the restaurant’s name beckons you in and leads you to the restaurant, a formidable country club-chic structure. Inside, the Silo is all open spaces and high ceilings with exposed beams. A series of windows along the back wall looks out over the course, making the space feel even more sweeping.

If the look of Silo leans into the farmhouse aspects of its name, the menu takes a more modern, refined approach to farm-to-table fare, starting with the bar. It serves up a selection of classic cocktails, martinis, and mules as well as a few inventive house cocktails, such as the Oak & Smoke. The drink, made with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Whiskey, ginger syrup, lemon juice, honey, and bitters, is smoked tableside.

Clockwise from left: Sage Advice cocktail, Peruvian octopus ceviche, Castiron Sea scallops.

“I love the blowtorch,” the gingham-clad server says with visible glee as she bounds off to fetch the necessary ingredients. She returns with a small carafe with the drink’s contents, two glasses and a wood plank, torching the wood and trapping the smoke in an empty tumbler that soon holds all the fixings. A whiff of the tantalizing smell comes with each sip of the well-balanced drink, mellowed out by the ginger and honey’s sweetness and spice.

The staff’s expertise doesn’t end with tableside smoking. The Silo team is knowledgeable about where ingredients are sourced, with many coming from local producers and sustainable farms. Case in point: As the server drops off an appetizer of shrimp and grits, she notes the shrimp come from the deep, deep Atlantic.

In the dish, those shrimp find themselves swimming in a silky, smoked tomato beurre blanc alongside rich, creamy grits punctuated with a few dollops of smoky tomato bacon jam. Other starters include baked brie, whipped goat cheese, and a trio of tacos—chili-marinated pork belly, tempura fish and carne asada—served on grilled local corn tortillas.


The menu also features a wide range of salads, sandwiches, and flatbreads that seem tailor-made for lunch after a round of golf, but even the more casual fare has an unexpected sophistication. Flatbreads include a Parmesan cream and caramelized fennel dish as well a Korean barbecue take with marinated pork belly, Sriracha barbecue sauce, and crispy shallots. The menu’s sandwich selection includes a handsome prime-rib sandwich finished with horseradish white cheddar giardiniera.

Entree offerings are just as diverse—from mac and cheese and herb pecan tofu to bouillabaisse and New Zealand lamb chops. With a focus on the ingredients and execution, items that could seem at odds on the same menu are less confusing than intriguing.

Whipped goat cheese.

Standouts include a sumptuous prime Angus beef tenderloin crusted with Boursin cheese, which makes the dish feel decadent without overpowering the meat’s flavor. Served simply with tender Lyonnaise potatoes and spears of asparagus, it showcases the talent in the kitchen. (Executive chef Laura Favela helms the restaurant under the management of local restaurant group KC Hopps.) Other dishes, such as the restaurant’s signature half chicken, embrace the more traditional side of the farmhouse concept. Several chicken preparations arrive on a rustic wooden plate—cast-iron seared, crispy fried, and a poached chicken salad, complemented by whipped potatoes and Brussels sprouts with bacon.

When dessert rolls around, however full you might feel, prepare to hear the siren song of the restaurant’s 32-layer chocolate cake. With alternating layers of chocolate mousse and chocolate cake, it’s just as eye-catching as the silo out front, no dramatic lighting required. For a subtler end to the evening, opt for the lavender and honey crème brulée. The scent of the aromatic wafts through the air as the ramekin arrives at the table, though honey is the sweetly dominant flavor once you crack through the bronzed layer of sugar glass.

We’d applaud, but a golf clap seems more appropriate.

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