As much as I consider eating and drinking part of my job, there are times when it does feel like a job. This can be a real hazard in my line of work, as no one wants to feel like they have lost their real or perceived culinary mojo.
At that point, the only thing that helps is to force myself to take a break from food. I eat boring salads for a few weeks, drink a lot of water, get in my exercise, and get eight hours of sleep. I try not to cook much, or read or watch anything that has to do with food. This process somehow helps me reset, until I find myself curiously hungry again.
I think I successfully came out the other side the night I went to eat at Bijou, the elegant new bistro located in the original Ragazza spot in Westport. It’s operated by Chad Alexander, a former entertainment entrepreneur who sold his business and decided for his next act he would open his own restaurant.
This always gives me a bit of pause, as most people who have never run a restaurant have no idea what it takes to do it well, but I was pleased to find Alexander impeccably dressed, warm and charming when he greeted me upon my arrival. He has a way of making you feel like you are the only person in the room when he is talking to you, which is such an incredibly important skill in this business, doubly so in this post-pandemic world, as it leaves each guest feeling appreciated. With only 40 seats in the restaurant, Alexander makes a point to stop by and chat with every table, and that is the special sauce that can’t be taught, you either have it or you don’t.
Inspired by European café culture, Alexander endeavored to make the inside of Bijou resemble the small, but elegant “jewel” that inspired its name. Teal-hued molding and brass-trimmed shelves stand out against the red-brick walls and classic black-and-white floor tile. It’s anchored by a large, handsome bar with plenty of seating and a regal black-and-white photo of a smiling Farrah Fawcett wearing a stunning evening gown that will simply stop you in your tracks. The picture provides the perfect pop culture “all hail the queen” moment that tells you Bijou is not taking itself too, too seriously.
The jewel-toned restaurant also has some interesting facets within its team. Brian Mehl, the executive chef, came from Plate in east Brookside and The Peacock, the short-lived spot that opened in the same space as Bijou. Tristan Uhl, who serves as beverage director, arrived from the now-shuttered Julep in Westport and has created a solid list of eight signature cocktails, along with a focused, and mostly European, wine list.
The restaurant’s signature Bijou Nouveau cocktail, based on a traditional Bijou cocktail from the 1800s, packs a pleasing punch. It’s crafted with Ahus Akvavit, Cocchi di Torino vermouth, China China Amer Liqueur (bitter orange, black pepper, cardamom, and beet), bitters, and topped with a sprig of rosemary.
There are nine small plates on the menu, and two larger dinner entrées. Small plates allow one to experience a wide variety of dishes, with an impressively equal mix of vegetables dishes to seafood and meat.
The miso mushrooms came to the table with an array of locally grown mushrooms sautéed in a citrus miso sauce perched on top of silky, ancient black rice and sprinkled with green onions and cilantro. The dish was perfectly seasoned and was velvet in my mouth.
When the pimento risotto arrived, I pictured a furious Italian nonna muttering under her breath and shaking her fists at the heavens at the audacity, but this Southern-lite lass could find no fault with the flavor or texture of the dish. Each piece of arborio rice had been slowly cooked until tender and coated in a light cheese sauce that was studded with tiny bits of pimento peppers, asparagus, and shiitake mushrooms lightly dusted with Parmesan cheese. Was it traditionally Italian? No, but it tasted like a refined version of the popular Southern spread.
The short rib dish included a tangle of wide ribbons of stracci pasta floating in a light pan jus topped with beechwood mushrooms and grilled corn pico. I wanted more beef and less pasta for this dish to be simply called “short rib” on the menu.
Pomme frites were as expected, hot and satisfyingly crisp and salty, with garlic aioli for dipping.
The salmon small plate appears to be a work in progress in terms of the plating and execution. The dish was served on two small saucers. The first had three petite piles of gravlax-cured salmon, slices of sweet red pepper, and aged balsamic onions. The second saucer had a dollop of ricotta cheese and stacked planks of house-made focaccia. It wasn’t enough to share and served on two plates, rather it looked like two different dishes, neither very impressive.
All in all, I walked away from Bijou pleasantly impressed with the polish of the drinks, food, atmosphere, and service. My culinary mojo was officially reinvigorated and ready for more.