It is almost impossible to describe the look and feel of Noka, the chef Amante Domingo’s restaurant located on the corner of Martini Corner in Midtown. You simply must go and experience it for yourself.
Noka was inspired by Domingo’s late father, who was a farmer. As a homage, Domingo lovingly took the 150-year-old reclaimed barnwood from his father’s farm to build the shelves near the bar and back wall of the restaurant. Displayed against the wood are antique Japanese clay pots and a variety of wooden bowls and platters, all dramatically lit from behind.
In addition to the sizable bar, which offers plenty of seating, and the chef’s counter seats that line the kitchen pass, there are three large brutalist-inspired concrete tables that appear to have been poured into place. Each communal table seats 20 people, and although some people at your table might know each other, others might not, so be prepared to mingle when you sit down.
The entire restaurant is bathed in flinty gray and natural stone tones; it feels both completely modern and incredibly biblical all at the same time. It’s a little like dining in the middle of a museum of ancient artifacts. Embrace the space as its own esthetic, as nothing in Kansas City is even remotely similar to this new Japanese farmhouse-inspired dinner and drinks spot.
The menu is made up of a rotating list of 20 small plates that can be shared with others or enjoyed on their own. The most expensive dishes center around meat and seafood, like the Japanese wagyu A5 ribeye cap, which comes in strips laid over a ripping-hot stone and served with shaved truffles on top. The wild bass is seared over the open flame of a binchōtan charcoal grill before it’s brushed with a miso and black-garlic glaze, and the earthy risotto is served with a colossal wild prawn perched on top.
The only hint of raw fish on the menu can be found in the Kanpachi, or yellowtail sashimi, dish that is presented sliced on top of a bed of popcorn dust and drizzled in a vibrant and flavorful shiso oil, and the fish roe topped with crispy potatoes. Vegetable dishes are plentiful with edamame, bok choy, shishito peppers, and more to enjoy.
Turning to cocktails, Noka offers a tightly curated list of mixed drinks, curiously unnamed. Each features its own unique mix of tropical fruit flavors, herbs, and vegetable juices combined with Japanese spirits ranging from whiskey to gin. There is also a short and sweet selection of both wine and beer.
One of the most colorful cocktails on the menu is Gin #2, which could be considered a Japanese riff on the classic French 75 cocktail. It is made with shochu, a Japanese spirit made with sweet potatoes and rice, that is fermented in decades-old clay pots in Japan, similar to those that decorate the walls at Noka.
Using both Japanese shochu and gin, the liquor is shaken with a spicy and sweet Thai chili kumquat syrup and a hint of lemon juice, which is strained into a coupe glass and topped with ginger beer instead of Champagne or sparkling wine.
The pretty yellow cocktail is refreshingly balanced and comes to the table at Noka with a bright orange marigold blossom floating on top. Consider this cocktail that little pop of color you didn’t even know you wanted or needed.
Gin #2
- 2 ounces Jikuya Black Shochu
- 1 ounce Roku Gin
- 1 ounce Thai chili kumquat syrup*
- . 5 ounce lemon juice
Shake ingredients together with ice, strain into coupe, top with ginger beer, and serve.
*Thai Chili Kumquat Syrup
- 2 cups halved kumquats
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 cup water
- 4 tablespoons lemon powder
- 10-20 Thai chilis (depending on how spicy you want the syrup to be)
Put all ingredients into a saucepan and bring to a boil, letting it simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove chilis from the pot and blend remaining ingredients in a blender. Strain the syrup into a storage container. Makes 1 quart.